Basically, UV curing is just another way to make any particular resin harden; Polyesters, Vinyl Esters, Urethanes, Acrylates, Methacrylates, Epoxies, Polyethers etc. You certainly can mix-in catalysts that will cause the resin to harden but there are several drawbacks to this:
Precision measuring and mixing is necessary for good results.
Your resin might be thick, it might be difficult to mix evenly
You certainly could mix-in bubbles while you’re mixing
Curing is dependent upon a temperature range of approximately 55°F – 120°F –below 55°F and it won’t cure, above 120°F and you’ve got fireworks.
Some catalysts are dangerous chemicals.
Once mixed, you are committed to use all the resin.
Cure times range from 5 minutes (rush! Rush!) to 4 hours (snooze, snooze).
Give off MUCH more pollutants while curing.
ON THE OTHER HAND, UV CURE RESINS
Require no mixing.
Predictably cure at the same speed from -20°F to 120°F
Eliminate the need for dangerous catalysts in your factory, in your hands.
Allow you to use exactly what amount you need and actually POUR BACK that which you do not use!
You tell the resin when to cure and you can tell the resin to stop (so that you may do “B-Stage” trimming). Otherwise, a complete cure is in seconds to a few minutes (website).
UV–Cure resins significantly reduce pollutants, period. On the Federal side, The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has deemed UV-Cure resins LAER (Lowest Achievable Emission Rate) and The Southern California Air Quality Management District has similarly deemed UV Cure as Best Available Control Technology (BACT)
Boat – fiberglass or wood: (all gel-coat and structural repairs)
Bait boxes / bait tanks – (seals and restructures)
Jet Ski – (all gel-coat and structural repairs)
Docks (fills and restructures rotting wood and attachments)
Catamaran hulls – (structural and gel coat repairs)